Is a 10-Year-Old Dryer Worth Fixing? Here’s What You Need to Know

You walk into the laundry room and hear it-the familiar rumble of your dryer, then silence. It’s not spinning. Not heating. Just dead. You sigh. It’s a 10-year-old dryer. You’ve had it since before your kid started kindergarten. Now you’re stuck wondering: is a 10-year-old dryer worth fixing? Or should you just buy a new one?

How long do dryers actually last?

Most tumble dryers are built to last between 10 and 13 years. That’s the average lifespan according to appliance manufacturers and repair professionals who service hundreds of units every year. If yours is hitting 10, you’re right at the edge of its expected life. Not dead yet, but definitely in the late innings.

That doesn’t mean it’s done. Some dryers run fine for 15 years or more if they’ve been cleaned regularly. Others die at 7 because someone never cleaned the lint trap or blocked the vent with a sock. Age alone isn’t the killer-it’s neglect.

What’s broken? The fix matters more than the age

Not all repairs are equal. Some fixes cost $40 and last five more years. Others cost $200 and buy you six months before the next part fails.

Here’s what’s usually worth fixing:

• Thermal fuse - $15 part, $70 total repair. If this blew, the dryer won’t heat. It’s a safety feature that trips when it overheats. Easy fix. Always check this first.
• Drum belt - $30 part, $120 labor. If the drum spins but doesn’t tumble, the belt’s likely snapped. Common on older models. Worth replacing.
• Heating element - $50 part, $150 total. If the dryer runs but stays cold, this might be it. Common in electric dryers. Usually worth fixing if the machine is otherwise solid.
• Door switch - $20 part, $80 total. If the dryer won’t start when you close the door, this tiny switch could be the culprit. Simple test, simple fix.

Here’s what’s usually not worth fixing:

• Motor - $180-$300 part, $250+ labor. If the motor’s gone, you’re paying more than half the cost of a new dryer. Even if it works after repair, the rest of the machine is aging fast.
• Control board - $200-$400. Modern dryers have digital boards that fail from moisture or power surges. Replacing this is expensive, and the new board might fail again in 2 years.
• Drum rollers or glides - $60-$100 parts, $180 labor. If the drum is squeaking or wobbling, these wear out. It’s fixable, but if the dryer’s already noisy and slow, you’re just delaying the inevitable.

Cost comparison: Fix vs. Replace

Let’s say your dryer won’t heat. You get a quote: $175 to replace the heating element and clean the vent. That’s a bargain.

Now, a new mid-range electric dryer? Around $550-$700. Installation? $100-$150 if you need a new vent or electrical hookup. Total: $650-$850.

So if the repair costs under $300 and the dryer still looks and runs well otherwise, fixing it makes sense. If the repair hits $400 or more, you’re flirting with buying a new one anyway.

Here’s a quick rule: if the repair is less than half the price of a new dryer, and the machine has no other major issues, fix it. If it’s more than half, walk away.

Energy efficiency: The hidden cost of an old dryer

Old dryers from 2016 used about 5.5 kWh per load. New Energy Star models use 3.5 kWh or less. That’s a 36% drop in energy use.

If you do 5 loads a week, that’s 260 loads a year. At $0.15 per kWh, your old dryer costs $45.65 a year to run. A new one? $29.20. You save $16.45 a year.

That doesn’t sound like much-but over five years, that’s $82 saved on electricity. Add in lower maintenance and fewer breakdowns, and the new dryer pays for itself in 3-4 years.

And don’t forget: new dryers have moisture sensors, steam cycles, and auto-dry settings that prevent over-drying. That means less shrinkage, less wear on your clothes, and less lint buildup over time.

Condition matters more than age

One client had a 12-year-old dryer that still worked like new. Why? He cleaned the lint trap after every load. He vacuumed the vent every six months. He never overloaded it. He didn’t use fabric softener sheets (they clog vents). That dryer was still running strong.

Another had a 7-year-old dryer that died because the vent was packed with lint and fur from two dogs. The motor burned out. That wasn’t age. That was neglect.

So ask yourself: Is this dryer well-maintained? Or is it a ticking time bomb of lint and dust? If it’s clean and quiet, it’s worth saving. If it’s loud, smelly, and covered in fuzz, it’s already on its last legs.

What to do if you decide to replace it

If you’re replacing it, here’s what to look for:

• Electric vs. gas - If you already have a gas line, stick with gas. It’s cheaper to run. If you don’t, electric is easier to install.
• Capacity - Most families need 7-8 cubic feet. If you do large loads (king sheets, comforters), go bigger.
• Moisture sensor - Don’t skip this. It stops the cycle when clothes are dry. Saves energy and prevents damage.
• Warranty - Look for at least a 1-year full warranty. Some brands offer 5-year parts warranties on the motor.

Brands like LG, Whirlpool, and GE consistently rank highest in reliability surveys. Avoid the cheapest models-they cut corners on motors and drums.

Final decision checklist

Before you call a technician or head to the store, run through this:

1. How much will the repair cost? (Get a written quote)
2. Is that less than half the price of a new dryer?
3. Has the dryer been cleaned and maintained?
4. Are there other signs of wear-noisy, slow, overheating?
5. How much do you spend on electricity per year?
6. Would a new model save you money long-term?

If you answered yes to questions 1, 3, and 5-and no to 4-then fix it.

If you answered no to 1 or 3, or yes to 4, then replace it.

There’s no magic number. A 10-year-old dryer isn’t automatically trash. But it’s not a bargain either. It’s a decision point. And you’ve got all the info you need to make the right call.