If your dryer’s been spinning for hours but your clothes still come out damp, you’re not alone. In Perth’s dry climate, a working dryer isn’t just convenient-it’s essential. But when it stops doing its job, the frustration is real. Most of the time, it’s not a broken motor or a blown circuit. It’s one of five simple, common problems that show up again and again in household dryers.
Lint Buildup Is the Silent Killer
Every time you run a load, your dryer pulls in air, heats it, and pushes it through the drum to pull moisture out of clothes. That air carries lint. And if that lint doesn’t get cleared out, it clogs the vent, the filter housing, even the blower wheel. A clogged vent doesn’t just make your dryer work harder-it’s a fire hazard. The Australian Fire and Rescue Service reports that over 1,200 home fires each year are linked to clothes dryers, and lint buildup is the top cause.
Check your lint filter after every load. That’s non-negotiable. But also pull out the vent hose at least once every three months. Use a vacuum with a long nozzle to clean the inside of the duct. If you can’t see daylight through the vent pipe when you hold it up to the light, it’s blocked. Flexible plastic or foil vents? Replace them. They collapse easily and trap lint. Rigid metal ducting is the only safe choice.
The Heating Element Has Gone Out
When your dryer tumbles but doesn’t heat, the heating element is the usual suspect. It’s a simple coil of wire that glows red-hot when electricity flows through it. Over time, it wears out. You might hear the drum spinning and the fan running, but no warmth comes out. That’s the classic sign.
It’s not hard to test. Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, and use a multimeter to check for continuity across the heating element terminals. If the meter reads zero or shows an open circuit, the element is dead. Replacement parts for common brands like LG, Samsung, and Whirlpool cost between $40 and $80. Installing it takes about an hour if you’ve got basic tools. Don’t forget to check the thermal fuse while you’re in there-it often blows at the same time.
Thermal Fuse Blown
The thermal fuse is a safety device. It’s designed to cut power if the dryer overheats. It’s usually mounted near the heating element or exhaust duct. If the vent gets blocked and the dryer overheats, the fuse blows to prevent a fire. Once it blows, it doesn’t reset. You have to replace it.
Here’s how to tell if it’s the culprit: the dryer won’t start at all. No noise, no light, nothing. But the drum doesn’t spin. That’s different from a broken belt or motor. To test the fuse, unplug the dryer, locate the fuse (it’s a small white or black cylinder with two wires), and use a multimeter. If there’s no continuity, the fuse is dead. Replace it with the exact model number. Don’t bypass it. That’s how fires start.
Drum Belt Snapped
If your dryer runs but the drum doesn’t turn, the belt is likely broken. The belt wraps around the drum and connects to the motor pulley. Over time, it stretches, frays, and finally snaps. You might hear a squealing noise before it goes, or just silence when you press start.
To check, open the dryer’s front panel. Look for the belt-it’s a thin, rubbery loop. If it’s broken, you’ll see it lying loose. Replacement belts cost under $30 and are easy to install. But here’s the catch: when the belt breaks, it often damages the idler pulley or motor pulley too. Check those while you’re in there. If the pulley is cracked or wobbly, replace it at the same time. Otherwise, your new belt won’t last.
Moisture Sensor Dirty or Faulty
Modern dryers have sensors that detect how damp your clothes are and automatically shut off when they’re dry. These sensors are usually two metal strips inside the drum. Over time, fabric softener residue, lint, and detergent build up on them. That tricks the dryer into thinking your clothes are dry when they’re not.
Wipe the sensor strips with a damp cloth and a little vinegar. That’s it. No tools needed. If cleaning doesn’t fix it, the sensor might be faulty. Test it with a multimeter for resistance. If the reading doesn’t change when you touch it with a wet finger, it’s dead. Replacement sensors cost $25-$50. But most of the time, cleaning is all it takes.
Start Switch or Door Switch Failure
If you press start and nothing happens-not even a click-it could be the start switch or door switch. The door switch is a tiny button that turns the dryer on only when the door is fully closed. If the switch is worn or the door latch is bent, the dryer thinks the door is open and won’t run.
Test the door switch by gently pressing it with a screwdriver while someone else hits start. If the dryer hums, the switch is faulty. The start switch is trickier-it’s usually behind the control panel. You’ll need to remove the front panel to access it. Both switches cost under $20. Replace them with OEM parts. Generic ones fail faster.
When to Call a Pro
You can fix most dryer issues yourself. But there are signs you should call a technician. If you smell burning plastic or see smoke, turn off the power and call someone immediately. If the dryer trips your circuit breaker every time you use it, there’s a wiring fault or shorted component. Don’t keep resetting it. That’s asking for a fire.
Also, if you’ve tried all the fixes above and it still won’t dry, the problem might be with the control board. These are expensive to replace-up to $300-and require programming in some newer models. At that point, it’s worth comparing repair cost to the price of a new dryer. A good, energy-efficient model costs around $800-$1,200. If your dryer is over 10 years old, replacement often makes more sense than repair.
Prevention Is Easier Than Repair
Here’s how to keep your dryer running for years:
- Clean the lint filter after every load-yes, even if you think it’s not that full.
- Inspect and clean the vent duct every three months.
- Use rigid metal venting, not flexible plastic.
- Don’t overload the drum. Clothes need room to tumble.
- Use low-heat settings when possible. High heat wears out parts faster.
- Wipe the moisture sensors with vinegar every six months.
Most dryers last 10 to 13 years. With good care, you can hit 15. Skip the fancy dryer sheets. They coat the sensors and vents. Use wool dryer balls instead. They’re cheaper, last longer, and don’t leave residue.
Why does my dryer run but not heat?
The most common reason is a failed heating element. It’s a coil that wears out over time. Other possibilities include a blown thermal fuse, faulty thermostat, or broken high-limit switch. Test the heating element with a multimeter-if there’s no continuity, it needs replacing. Always check the thermal fuse at the same time.
Can a clogged vent cause my dryer to take too long to dry?
Absolutely. A blocked vent restricts airflow, so hot air can’t escape and moisture can’t be pulled out of clothes. Your dryer might run for two hours and still leave clothes damp. This also forces the heating element to work harder, shortening its life. Clean the vent hose and duct regularly-every three months is ideal.
Why won’t my dryer start at all?
The most likely causes are a blown thermal fuse, a broken door switch, or a failed start switch. If the drum doesn’t spin and there’s no noise, start by testing the door switch. Press it manually while someone else presses start. If the dryer responds, replace the switch. If not, check the thermal fuse next. Both are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Is it worth repairing a 12-year-old dryer?
It depends on the repair cost and your usage. If the fix is under $150 and the dryer still has good performance, yes. But if you’re replacing the control board, motor, or heating element and the cost is over $300, it’s usually better to buy new. Modern dryers are 30% more energy efficient and have better sensors. Plus, a new unit comes with a warranty.
Do dryer sheets damage my dryer?
Yes, over time. The waxy coating from dryer sheets builds up on the moisture sensors and inside the vent system. This tricks the dryer into thinking clothes are dry when they’re not. It also reduces airflow. Use wool dryer balls instead-they reduce static, soften clothes, and don’t leave residue. They last for over 1,000 loads.
Final Thought
Most dryer failures aren’t mysterious. They’re predictable. Lint, heat, and wear are the enemies. If you clean the filter religiously, inspect the vent every few months, and avoid overloading the drum, you’ll avoid 90% of the problems. Fixing it yourself saves money and gives you control. But if something smells wrong or sparks fly-stop. Call a pro. Safety always comes first.